I'm still waiting for my Vietnam VISA to process, so this morning i took a trip out to the floating markets. About 2 hours out of Bangkok. Im sure it was a real joy at one stage but sadly it is now an expensive tourist trap, and an unwelcome shock from the laid back lifestyle of the south. Hopefully should be out of here tomorrow morning, when i'll catch a train to Kanchanaburi. Bye.

There are no net cafes in Koh Sok National Park so i have included my last two journal entries as one. The photos will appear when i e-mail them to sam.

DAY 1

After a terrible jopurnay on a very cramped night boat to Surat Thani I finally got a bus to Koh Sok national park. No building is allowed inside thepark and so a number of huts have set themselves up on the fringe some 100m from the park entrance. I checked myself into a place known as the Jungle Huts, hastily thrown together shelters made entirely of bamboo right at the edge of the jungle. "A mosquito net and a hole in the floor come at no extra charge" i was told. Thanks. Tired from the journey but eager to explore i walked to the entrance and bought my three day pass.

Koh Sok park is vast, in incompasses lakes, mountains and huge areas of wild jungle. A sketch map from the visitor center points out some of the sights worth seeing within close proximity of the entrance, theoretically all within a days walk. With plenty of water in my day sack and map in hand I set off on the train marked #5,an 8km round trip to a waterfall which i predicted would take me2-3 hours. 2km into the walk with not a soul in sight the man made dirt track stopped and was replaced by what i can only describe as dense jungle. Using the compass on my watch, the map and the river as a guide I kept going.

What followed was some of the toughest walking and climbing i have ever encountered in my years of walking, enjoyable but excruitiatingle hard work, this was not Grisedale forest, nor was it 'Jungle for Tourists', it was the real thing, thick jungle, no footpaths. The river my only physical guide. It had taken me one and a half hours to cover 3km and i personally thought i was doing pretty well. Aware from the outset the last 1km would entail walking directly down a river, waste deep, i kept walking until reaching the riverbank.

Upon reaching the river it was immediately clear that it was not what i had expected, the water was moving fast and looked a lot deeper than waste level, this is the way the trail was sending you. It would have been to dangerous to continue with professional supervision, so i decided to cut my losses and give up, id also not seen a single person since setting off. This was very disappointing considering I had spent half the day getting there and was probably only some 700m from the falls, but the dangers were obvious. I took a short break and begrudgingly began the 2-3 hour walk back to my hut. Once back i nursed my blisters and flipper burns, none of which had begun to heal, and went to bed. An enjoyable but frustrating day.

DAY 2

Annoyed from yesterday, i through on my sandals (first mistake) and set off back to the park (second mistake) to try a different trail (third mistake). I chose #8, a 6km round trip. Shorter than yesterday but with half a dozen shallow river crossings. This time the terrain was immediately difficult, very difficult. Despite years of mountain walking nothing you for the jungle, physically or mentally. The humidity is unbearable and the lack of knowledge with reagards to plant and aimal life very intimidating, this is not to say that it is not enjoyably, there is a facinaitingly rich array of insects, plants and birds.

After one hour i came to my first river crossing. Now this is where it starts to get a bit nasty. The river was not deep, 30cm or so and very calm, so i happily strolled through. Reaching down to remove stones from my feet i noticed that 3 leeches had attached themselves to the top of my left foot.

Leeches are strange creatures. They start off being about 2-3mm wide and 1-2cm long. They move like a slinky spring hoping down a set of stairs and are slug like in appearance. As they suck blood they slowly expand there body size over 10 times untill they naturally drop off. Believe me, psychologically this is not an option. I tried to pull them off over the course of several minutes with no success. There slimey body and rapid wiggling maker them virtually impossible to get a grip of.

Not to worried but slightly discusted i racked my head for a solution as they slowly increased in size. I suddenly remembered i scene from a bond film where he had removed them using a lighter. I fetched mine from my bag and held the flame away from my skin and next to the leech. After a couple of seconds it momentarily released its grip and i was able to flick it off. I removed the others in the same way.

Now the problem with leeches is the way they bite. They cause no pain atall. This is a bad thing as you could have any umber on your body and never know. The second problem is that when they do they release a chemical that prevents the blood from clotting, this results in heavy bleeding for anything up to 30mins.

I took a break, took a photo, and kept going.

Similar problems at the second and third crossings, a coulple round my feet and ankles. Again i removed them and kept going. The fourth crossing was slighly different, the river was a little deeper and much wider. I began to sprint as fast as i could, soaking myself but in the hope of recieving less leeches, this was not the case on quite a serious level.

I looked down to find some 20-30 or so had attached themselfes to my feet, toes and ankles, others where climbing my sandles and legs. Frightened and very distressed i whipped of sandles and rumeged for my lighter. Leeches were attached to my unhealed cuts and blisters, some where climbing inside the cuts and under the skin. I sat there for some 15 mins removing them before they started to draw too much blood. If you catch them early the bleeding is not so bad, more than a minute or two and they will bleed heavily. Ten or so came off very quickly, others wernt so easy. I obviously prioritized removing the ones inside wounds, these were painful and upset me greatly. Later turning to the others.

Job done i found somewhere dry to sit. Obviously I was not going to continue. My feet already bad when i set off now looked like something from a horror film. Luckily i had a plastic bag in my daysack. I tied it round my worst foot and ran back across a fifferent part of the river. I was probablly again only some 800m from my destination but physically could not have continued.

Several things went through my head. Firstly how could so many attach in such a short stretch of water, i was only in the river little over a minute. Secondly, why was there absolutely no warning, not on the map, not when i bough my ticket, nowhere. Focussing on getting back to my hut i slowly began to limp back. Always having to remove leeches at each river, but never as bad as the fourth crossing.

Tired, upset and about 1km form the entrance i saw several monkeys with huge white eyes only feet away, the sound of which i had heard for most of the walk. They were probably gibbons. This for me nearly made the trip worth while. I finally got back to my hut and treated my feet. I used my entire first aid kit one and an english couple kindly helped with the other. I wont be using the last day of my national park ticket and feel quite angry at the lack of warnings, for both the difficulty of terrain and the leeches. The next few days i will rest. All my feet are nicely bandaged up and should be ok pretty soon. Then, i'll head back to Bangkok and sort out my VISA's. Despite the horror stories i did have a good time, but im just not cut out for this jungle shit.

That was all a couple of days ago and im now back in Bangkok, my feet are getting better and i feel a lot more relaxed. Today is gonna be pretty dull while i do paperwork etc. Anyway here are those photos.

The Good (Chilling on Ko Tao)

The Bad ( Night train to Surat Thani)

The Ugly ( Removing leeches at the first crossing)

Another quick update. As Much as Ko Tao's paradisal lifestyle entices me stay ive decided to move on. Tonight @9 im getting a night boat to Surat Thani (a transport hub) where i'll get the 6am bus over to Khao Sok national park to go and do some jungle trekking. A national park pass lasts three days and there are some 9 treks around lakes, waterfalls etc. So i'll probablly stay the duration. The scenery and tree house accommodation here are supposed to be a real treat so im really looking forward to it.
Im currently in quite a bit of pain. Badly shaped flippers from this morning SCUBAING?! has left broken blister burns on 6 of my toes, and sunburn on my shoulders (despite wearing creme and a t-shirt on 2 dives) is making my backpack rather awkward to carry. They say say no pain, no gain, and that certainly seems to be the case on Ko Tao where ive an awsome time. Sawat Dii (Bye)

Quick update, ive spent all morning SCUBA diving around the island, a 30 min safety course was followed by two 40 min dives at two different dive sites. The first dive was great and i had no problems but on the second my ears would not equalize (for the pressure) despite using three different techniques. It took about 10 mins on my 2nd dive to get down to the depth of 14m, apparently this is normal in some people, once i was down there though it was great, a bit like flying. Yesterdays snorkeling provided a better richness of sealife but today was all about a new experience. Despite being told not worry about the pressure problems on my second dive (this basically consists of pain in the ears) it has put me off doing any more dives, apparently the only way to get rid of the problem is to have your ears flushed so equalizing is no longer a problem, something that sounds rather unpleasant. Im at a bit of a loose end now as to where to go. The french guy i was hanging round with over the last two days has just gone to Malaysia, im goona go get a drink and a think, will probably go back north to base (Bangkok) or possibly head of toward the national park on the other side of the peninsula. Byes

Had an awesome morning, i took a boat all the way round the island stopping to snorkel at some of the richest coral and fish beds that the Thai Gulf has to offer, first of all we went out to shark island, although i didnt see any, the variety and ammout of tropical fish and corals was astounding. Colourful fish up to 1m long would swim right up to your mask and then dart off (they love banana by the way). Next was on to an open water snorkel, the water here was between 12 and 35 m deep and totally destroyed my fear from the other day, it was hard to be frightened of fish that where so beautiful. Finally we went to the underwater Japanese Garden , about 200 m of the shore of a sea crag. Ive enjoyed the day so much i'll probablly go and check out a 1 day SCUBA course

Determined to overcome my fear yesterday I have decided to dive in the deep end (literally). I’ve booked myself on a snorkeling trip round Koh Toh and then out to shark island, a small forested sea crag where the Black tip reef sharks live/feed. It’s an early start and a long day so ill probably just chill out today.

Ive arrived on Koh Tao, a tropical and unspoiled paradise in the Gulf of Thailand. White sands surround thick palm tree forests in what is the most beautiful place i have been so far. Amazingly (as some people will know about about Thailand) there is a net cafe here, hence the post, but apart from a couple of dozen bungalows and some diving centers there is little else on this 12 Sq/Mile island. Famed for its sealife, due to hot and deep waters close to shore i decided to go snorkeling, i was absolutely terrified as schools of tropical fish swam around me and sea cucumbers littered the sands below, i will completely honest and say that i was to scared to stay in for to long and to go to far out but it was an incredible experience, an Australian couple had recomeded a place to see small sharks about 10 meteres from my bunglow which is set into the rocks, but i couldnt gather the courage. Literally the only time ive bottled out of anything. I haven't decided yet whether or not i will stay a few more days and try to overcome the fear but i suspect i might. I'll post some photos when i get back to Bangkok but at the moment my memory card has packed in and so i'll have to wait to get there to get a new one. Later.

Hi all, spent last night at a place called ‘OK bungalows’ and they were OK, ended up going out with the owner for some Thai food and language swapping. Had a bit of a disaster with my laundry, after washing and hanging it I went to bed and at some point in the night monsoon rains had washed two pairs of underpants into the sea. Im just waiting to get a 2 hr boat over to Koh Tao, famed for its excellent diving, amazing marine life and sharks (safe sharks) it’s the smallest and most remote island so I doubt there will be a net café there, anyway I’ll be in touch when I get back to Ko Pha Ngan or the mainland.

Rob.

Left Hat Rin Yesterday and headed by boat (to hot to walk through the jungle) to Hat Thian, a remote bay and home to a few wooden huts and a meditation center, amazing scenery and people. I was staying at a place called "The Sanctuary", a sort of retreat where lost hedonistic souls seem to gather and sit around doing Tai Chi etc. I took part in a 2 hour mediatation session, cant say it did that much for me but it definitely felt a bit weird. May only stay on the island a few more days as despite nets repellant and long clothes the mosquitos are making life more than a misery. Probably gonna head over to Ko Tao or Ko Samui where the weather is a little less humid and the thunder storms dont keep you awake every single night. Bye.

Been on Ko Phan Ngan (spelled right now) for two days and having a great time, staying in a little hut on Sunset Beach at Hat Rin. Despite the long journey here i somehow had the stamina to go for a night out on Sunrise Beach, about 300 yards form Sunset Beach, this place is the main town on the island and hosts the world famous full moon party, which i'll probably try to avoid. Im moving on today to the north of the island which has to be done on foot as there are no roads to many parts of the island. Had a bit of a nightmare the other night when after a few Chiang Beers I was walking back to my hut and was surrounded by a pack of stray dogs, myself and two other travelers had to run down a back street to get away but it was probably more paranoia than danger. May not be in touch for a few days as im going to stay in some very quiet areas. Rob

Finally arrived on Ko Phan Nang this morning after a hellish 14 hour journey, photos and stories later, but highlights included a poverty stricken train of locals selling everything from bottles of water to the shoes on their feet, toilet train sections disappearing in the night resulting in unexpected footsteps to the outside and almost lethal consequences, and Jamarioqui in the first class section ( equally as shit as second class only there curtains are yellow) sending free drinks down the train in a desperate atemtpt to make "normal" friends.
Ive just checked into a wooded lodge on the beach of Hat Rin on Ko Phan Nang. Probablly just gonna relax for a few days and take some walks round the beautiful waterfalls that scatter the island. Im extremely tired and haven't really had an un-interrupted nights sleep in almost three days due to early trains and late buses etc....but the scenery is always a pleasure. Byes

I have to get out of Bangkok. The joys of arriving have worn off and the traffic and fumes are beginning to take there toll. Just visited the huge National Museum, at 40 Baht it was worth it just for the air con. Im getting a night train down to the south tonight so tomorrow i can get a boat over to Ko Samui and then on to Ko Phan Nang, the most peaceful place in Thailand due to the lack of any roads. bye :-)

Hello All, Just arrived in Bangkok, Id almost forgotten what a great city it is. The Thai smile makes a welcome change from the grey melancholy faces of a Heathrow smoking lounge. Ive just bussed it in from the airport.....destination......The infamous Ko Sahn Road. Whether back packing in Thailand came from Ko Sahn or vice-versa isnt entirely clear, but what imediatly stikes you is the sense of community and excitement, everyone is here for the same reason.My legs have just about recovered from 11 hours of contortionist hell and im safely checked in to a hostel known as the ""Classic"" Inn....(classy). Im currently sharing a room with a little Irish guy from cork called Ronan (yes, jokes a plenty). Anyway i shall love and leave you all, hopefully going down to Ko Phan Nang tomorrow for more sun, sand and vegetable rice dishes.

Rob.