Into Thin Air

Huyana Potosi sits one hour out from La Paz and its glacial 6088m peak is one of the highest in the Cordillera Real. The altitude of the summit is not only higher than that of Everest base camp, but also some 200m higher than Everest Camp 1. Climbing Huayana Potosi was the most physically challenging thing i have ever done.

Day 1 - Base Camp

After arriving at base camp we unloaded all the equipment, food tents etc and headed off to a nearby glacier to practice our ice climbing and crampon technique. The 10m vertical wall of ice was nothing in comparison to the so called Little Fella and Big Fella that we would encounter once on the mountain, but gave us a little more time to get used to the altitude, temperature and equipment. Its pretty tough doing anything once you get over 3500m and so after a few hours we headed back to camp to rest and sleep.

Day 2 - To High Camp

In the morning the weather looked good (unlike Day 1) and a porter had joined us to help carry some of the extra equipment and food up to high camp. The walk up to the 4800m camp largely consisted of walking on very steep loose rocky ground, all the way to the snow line. It wasn't enjoyable, and due to the altitude, each step up the mountain felt like you were sprinting a hundred. We finally made it and set up our tents, with great views over the lower peaks of Huyana Potosi. After a quick bite to eat we went off to bed at 5.30pm, breakfast was to be at 11.30pm that evening.

At 9pm i woke with my first symptom of hypoxia, a very severe headache. Other symptoms include dizziness, confusion, loss of appetite, nausea and impaired judgement. Different people are affected in different ways and at different altitudes. 800mg of Ibuprofen and 250mg of Acetazolamide (a body regulator often used for altitude problems) later and i finally got back to sleep.

Day 3 - The Accent

We wake up. Early starts are needed due to the deteriation of the snow which can create dangerous conditions on the mountain. Its 11.30pm, its freezing cold, pitch black and the stars look incredible. A clear sky is good news for the climb ahead. From here on it will be head torches to the summit. We drink coffee, eat chocolate and do a quick kit check before throwing on the crampons and heading off. My walking partner is Frederic, a French Canadian chap that i have known for over a week, our guide is Pedro, he gives us the nod and we set off into the dark.

Around 2am we arrive at a place known as Camp Argentina. There is nothing there but it was a location used on a past accent by the Argentineans (hence the name). I remember feeling very sick at this point, but thankfully it passed quite quickly. At this point due to the steep snowy drops the three off us roped ourselves together so that if one slipped the others could break and save the fall. All this and its pitch black and bitterly cold. We were making good time and continued on to Little Fella. Little Fella is a steep wall of snow and ice at an increment of between 70 and 80 degrees. With ropes, pics and much effort we climbed its 30m face and continued. From this point on it was pure hard work, negotiating crevices and steep climbs.

At 4.30am we reached the foot of Big Fella. Big Fella is the final Climb to the summit and the final test. It consists of a 200-250m wall of ice at an angle of 70 degrees. We had made fantastic time and would be at the summit for sunrise for sure. Climbing Big Fella was hell. At this altitude its almost impossible to get your breath doing anything physical. First you run out off oxygen, then adrenaline, then all your energy, determination is the only source of movement.

The Summit

At 5.35am on Wednesday morning we arrived at the summit with nothing left to give. The sun would be rising over the next 30mins, all we could do was keep warm, watch and feel proud of what we had achieved. It was perfect. Far above the clouds at 6088m the three of us balanced on the knife edge peak, watching in awe as the sun began to throw beams of gold across the peaks of the Cordillera Real.


Here are a few photos, but due to the cold my camera kept packing up. I have also added a link to a video clip at the end of me biking on The Worlds Most Dangerous Road.

At the summit at 5.35am



Sunrise



On the decent



More on the decent



High Camp, and yes, that was the best place we could find to pitch a tent.



Frederic and I have a victory handshake at the summit.



Worlds most dabgerous road video clip HERE