Yesterday was kinda crazy. We all went to Mamu (Mother Pig). The home village of Fon and her sister Nud. Dan (Nud's husband) was meeting the family for the first time and so it was quite a big occasion. Gold was given, pigs were killed with a piece of bamboo (ouch), evil spirits removed and vast quantities of food and drink consumed. I'd love to go into details but i really wouldn't know where to start. Here are a few photos...

Fon, Angel and myself on the way to Mamu.



One of the Meals



Roast Pork



Having spirits removed.



Relaxing after the meal (most of which i couldnt eat)

Im back in Pai. The last two days here have been the Pai festival. Starting just before sunset musicians, dancers, fire and home made liquor fill the streets un till the early hours. A health and safety disaster area but enjoyable all the same.

As the nights drew on and the local people consumed increasing quantities of their chosen poison a division became clear. This is Lisu territory, and Thai confrontation is common. Everyone i knew said it was all for fun, but it looked like full on tribal warfare at times to me.

Despite what i said earlier using a motorbike has become the only way of getting around Pai. Cars are non existent, and so its all pretty slow and safe to drive around in, as well as being good fun.

I'll be going further into the mountains in the next few days with Fon, Nud and her husband Dan. We're off to Mamu their Lisu village to visit some family, i think its about 40 km north of here and about 10 km from Sappong.

See you when i get back.

Quick update. Still in Chiang Mai at the moment. Great city.

I have a few issues with dogs at the moment. Two days ago a dog stole one of my sandals from outside the house, this was very annoying, but also kind of funny. Incredibly the guy living opposite knew the location of the dogs secret cave and guided us there to find it. Its a little chewed up but still just about hanging together. Now you think i would learn from this. Not to leave things outside to get chewed up. No. Last night I left my book by the hammock. Returning this morning i could find only the bookmark, ironically enough a picture of a Labrador saying 'smile'. I wasnt doing anything of the sort and set off towards his cave. I didnt even get half way before a started to see pages of my book everywhere, in the road, peoples gardens, ponds, you get the idea. I did my best to round of much of it up as i could.

However, if anyone sees a dog chewing sandal and reading pages 42 through 174 of "A William Burroughs Reader" on Picador. PLEASE SHOOT IT!

When travelling you meet alot of people. Its quite normal behavior to sit at a table of random people and talk as if you've known them for years. This i have done as others have to me, and, in the process i have learnt many things. Ive swapped stories, recommendations, and general thoughts on what to do and what not.

Despite having a visa for Vietnam, and despite originally having every intention of going i am rapidly changing my mind. There are a number of reasons for this, some simple, some not. Every travellers horror story and warning that i have encountered in the scenarios mentioned above have been in Vietnam. The general philosophy being, why bother when you can go to Thailand and Laos, both of which have more to offer, both of which are safer,both of which are more friendly.

Yesterday my friend Fon, her sister Nud and Danish husband Dan, her cousin nick named "The boy", and myself went to a waterfall just outside Chiang Mai. Here i was shown how to catch freshwater shrimps with your hands, something more difficult than it sounds. I caught none as did Dan, the others being from a Lisu tribe and having had plenty of practice caught many.

"The Boy" then showed me how to climb a large tree overhanging the water, something more difficult than it sounds, he being from a Lisu tribe did it with ease. I on the other hand dramatically fell out saving my fall with by wrapping my right arm round a luckily positioned branch. This hurt. You know those burns you would always get in PE from falling on that gleaming wooden floor, i have one those. I have the finest example of one of those the size of a cuttlefish on the inside of my right arm and am walking around like someone conducting traffic. This, is my own stupid fault.

You may have noticed the slow down in blogs, the reason for this is a little more complicated the details of which im not going into too much. Except with my parents. Im currently staying just outside Chiang Mai at Fon's house, helping her with things that need doing. Im enjoying myself so much in Thailand that i will probably stay un till the end of my VISA before heading into Laos, skipping Viietnam and moving into Cambodia. I'll be in Chiang Mai for a few more days before heading back to Pai for a while.

Rafting was great. The heavy rain from the night before meant that we had to wait for the water level to drop, it didnt but the captain set of cautiously anyway. The plan was to go from Pai to Mae Hong Son by inflatable raft, some 80km in all with about 60 Class 4 rapids. The first day was going really well until the other boat in our group (each holding 5 and 1 captain) entered a violent rapid. Our captain shouted to the other in Thai, it was obvious that he was saying not to go ahead as it was to dangerous but it was too late. We rapidly paddled to the edge some 20 m before the rapid and fixed our self to a tree. Looking up we were overcome with horror as the other boat flipped in what is called a washing machine. These are very big dips in the water created by large rocks and powerful eddies. There was nothing we could do but watch the boat float away with no sign of the team. Our captain hopped off and scrambled across rocks and jungle to see if they were ok. After a 1 hour wait at the side he returned saying that everyone was accounted for. We walked the stretch they had flipped in and returned to the water.

That evening after 35km of rafting the other group told us they thought they had met their end, but managed to escape with minor cuts and bruises from the rocks. The captains, both of whom were very professional said that the boat flipped because they did not keep their weight on the edge of the boat as instructed, if they had they would have been fine.

Deep in the jungle at the edge of the river, we cooked, talked and slept.

By the next day the water had dropped by 1m meaning that the rest of the trip would be very easy compared to the previous day. Very enjoyable day with canyons, mountains and great views. After some thrill seeking cliff jumping we finally arrived at Mae Hong Son, deflated the boats and dried out our life jackets and helmets, most people stayed but i decided to return to Pai in their truck.For me it was the highlight of my time in Thailand as far as activities go, but understandably some of the others were visibly shaken and upset.

Still in Pai and just relaxing today with some friends (Lisu Tribe) and will go back to Chiang Mai tomorrow to slowly make my way into Laos.

Its raining again and a storm is closing in. This means tomorrows rafting should be in good conditions. In the mean time ive just been strolling around Pai. Its very difficult to get around in a lot of towns without a motorbike, and Pai is no exceptions. All of the falls, springs and viewpoints are a good 15 km away in various directions and not realistic to visit on foot. That said i'm sticking to my feet as ive seen and seen the result of , far to many accidents.

Im feeling very settled in Thailand now. My diet of rice, fresh vegetables, large amounts of water and soy milk is making me feel fantastic. Staying in local run guesthouses has given me an intensive course in real Thai humor, manners and traditions, something I now realize was missed in my last visit.

I guess the main thing I’m learning is about the pace of life. My friends in Kanchanaburi were always telling me that western nations always rush everything, eating, walking, traveling, and as a consequence overlook their objective, if they have one. Only now after nearly a month am I beginning to see what they mean. Being surrounded by Thai people every day forces you to move with them. However, this does not mean that they are any slower, lazy or unambitious. It means they display care, manners and patience in every circumstance. An attribute lacking in western culture. Night.

Ive arrived in Pai, truly a mountain town in the clouds. Everything is orientated around farang trying to be Thai rather than the usual opposite. Pai is one of the premiere sites in Thailand for white water rafting, a complete stretch of rapids runs hundreds of Km from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son. So much did I enjoy my rafting in Chiang Mai that I have booked a two day rafting trek down the rapids that I will start tomorrow.

Here are some photos, unfortunately I don’t have photos of a lot of things, as boats, rock climbing and traveling alone hinder the process slightly. Anyway here you go.

Washing down at a small hidden lagoon in the Jungle.



Trecking Views.



Strolling down the death railway in Kanchanaburi.

I came back yesterday from my 3 day jungle trek. Very tiring and very enjoyable.

The walk was set in the mountains some 1 hour from Chiang Mai. Our group of ten and our guide started the accent up one of the forested mountains. The scenery and wildlife distract the attention away from the heat and make all the walking worthwhile.

Our first night was spent staying with a small tribe of mountain people, they were very welcoming and insisted we participated in more than a few local 'traditions'. The second was an entire day of walking with the eventual destination being a another small tribe at the foot of a powerful waterfall. Here we stayed and made a fire talking to the early hours. An early start on the third day eventually brought us to the white water rafting point that would allow us to move down the terrifying rapids to calmer water. Here we switched to half-floating bamboo raft that really had seen better days and completed our journey.

Ive just been resting in Chiang Mai since then, apart from last night when i was persuaded to do the 70ft climbing wall that is a major feature of the night area. People from bars stand round and watch as suicidal individuals attempt to accend the floodlit wall. I didnt think i could do it due to the over hangs but completed the climb in 4 mins out of the allocated 30. Quite chuffed. I'll probably try and get a bus over to Pai today before slowly moving into Laos over the next week or so. Byes

Still Missing Kanchanaburi Im currently in the center of Chiang Mai, Thailands second biggest city. Amazingly the feel is more of an overgrown village than a polluted metropolis. I dumped my stuff at a real nice guest house, its run by a Ladyboy but that had to happen sooner or later. Tomorrow morning i will be setting off of on a 3 day trek into the jungle ( will i ever learn?) so im gonna go and stuff myself with nice food before hand.

Thanks for your posts everyone, especially Nick and Sean

(Congrats on the engagement by the way Sean)

I promise ill post some more photos when i can but can be a problem sometimes.

Full report when i get back.

Ive come back to Bangkok for 2 hours so i can get a bus to Chiang Mai in the north. It will be the longest journy yet and overnight again, but im getting used to it. Didn't really want leave Kanchanaburi today as i have made some good friends there, but it would have been two easy just spend weeks on end with them. I went out again last night with some Thai friends and they took me to a crazy disco/stage show/strangeness. Four hours of the most ridiculous musical performances ive seen, but very enjoyable.

Anybody who ever says that Thai people are always after money, i suggests visits Kanchanaburi. In the five days ive spent there ive paid for nothing but my food and room, and ive done a hell of a lot. Their honesty is unparalleled, and their generosity touching and humbling. Thank you to everyone at the Jolly Frog, especially 'Boo'.

My bus leaves at 6 so i better go. See in you in Chiang Mai.

Despite booking a bus to Bangkok, i was forced to cancel by some Thai's and 'farang' ( which means foreigner, friend...it also means guva which is a little confusing) and to stay an extra day. Apart from the obvious attractions there really isn't a great deal to do here in Kanchanaburi but the enjoyment has been of a completely different nature. In the few days ive been here, ive been more involved with the Thai people than anywhere else. Last night 'Boo' who works at the jolly frog invited me to her friends birthday party. This consisted of a floating dance floor that is slowly towed down the Kwai until the early hours, the subtle rocking making one beer feel like 5. This is all well and good until you want to leave, luckily i didn't.

The recent killing of two British back packers here in a bizarre incident has hit a lot of the local businesses very hard. As a result prices have dropped to ridiculous levels. My room, one of the nicest ive had, is 70 baht (1 pound) a night and a good meal can be had for about 10 baht. Despite wanting to stay a few more days, i have re-booked my bus for tomorrow. A few of us will go out for food later and then i'll get packed. Very sorry to leave here but must keep going.

Ive been in Kanchanaburi for a few days and I’m loving it. My room is at the Jolly Frogers and looks straight out onto the Kwai. A couple of days ago i visited a Buddhist temple in the mountains where the monks are hand raising abandoned tiger cubs. They come up frighteningly close with nothing between you and the tiger but a monk with a water pistol and a piece of bamboo. Amazing to see them so close, and rare in Thailand to see them in a conservation based project rather than an attraction.

Walking down to the infamous rail bridge that crosses the river Kwai, some 1 km from my room, there is a very strong sense of history here, and a strong warmth to all nationalities that were involved in the construction of the Death Railway under the control of the Japanese army. I took a 2hr train down the track to see the harsh terrain that was penetrated to construct a project in which some 100,000 POW's lost their lives.

Nearly fully recovered from my last national park i decided to go to the Erawan Park some 40km from Kanchanaburi. I was assured there were no leeches and the terrain was not to bad. Erawan park is home to some of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world. A series of 7 large infinitely complex falls and dozens of smaller falls cascade down a jungle packed mountain. Each has its own deep and crystal clear plunge pool bedded with white from the eroded lime stone cliffs. I spent the majority of that day simply swimming in each the falls and watching the wildlife. Very relaxing stuff.

Last night was a bit crazy, some of the girls that run the guesthouse took me two a Karaokoe room in the center of town. Each room on top floor of the hotel is converted into a private karaokoe room, with drinks, big chairs and mind blowing selection of ' Famous International' songs, none of which i had heard of, none of which i could sing. This didn't seem to matter as we merrily attempted songs in English, Thai, and a multitude of other languages. Embarrassment had no place as the distant sound of dozens of terrible voices boom from the walls either side. Bizarre night.

I will start heading for Chiag Mai tomorrow, this will inevitably involve a trip back to Bangkok first, which is a bit of a pain. More pics soon. Byes