Flying in over the eerily and largely untouched plains of Cambodia reveals a large geographical difference to other South East Asian countries, but these differences are insignificant in comparison to the ones that surround their social and economic attitudes. As most people know history has not treated Cambodia kindly. This is a country that has been attacked in one way or another for over 500 years. A trend that only really ceased in 1998 with the death of Pol Pot, who’s brutal Khmer Rouge were responsible for the death of nearly 3 million people over 4 years in the 1970’s. Throughout history the Americans, French, Chinese and Vietnamese have colonized, sent troops or dropped bombs into what used to be the most impressive and affluent area in the east. This is most prevalent in the Angkorian temples that surround Siem Reap, which I’ll get onto in a second. My point is that this country, one of the poorest in the world, has had a hard time.

Siem Reap is effectively a bubble. It’s quite possible to travel directly from the airport to a $1200 a night hotel and drink white wine spritzars with cosmopolitan madames without seeing any of the suffering or consequences of Cambodia's history. This appears to happen a lot. However you only have to look very slightly below the surface, or into the eyes of some people to see that the reality of life is very different to what many see through the window of their tour bus. Poverty is high, amputee numbers are high (from mines), mass begging, stealing and child prostitution are all high but a direct consequence of the countries history and pressures. Finally Cambodia seems to be getting on its feet after a rough ride but needs understanding and support from the international community, not charity from Angkor and Phnom Pen tourists.

I’ve spent the last three days exploring some of the 100 temples that spread over 3000 sq/km north of Siem Reap. Trying to do the major temples chronologically I got a bike driver to take me to the oldest and most distant temples. The following days I used a push bike to make my way around the others. Each temple complex is massive. Angkor Thom for example is about 16sq/km inside its walls. Angkor Wat (not the best), Bayon and Ta Prohm are impressive to say the least. The latter having huge towering trees growing directly on the top of corbel archways. My pass has expired as have my leg muscles and temple threshold and so after some enjoyable days im gonna relax tomorrow.

I also managed to have my first run in with the police. After apparently taking my bike the wrong way down a street I was fined $1 for my sins and told to be on my way. Curious as the scores of Cambodians ahead and behind be seemed non-eligible for this penalty.